COWLEY MANOR EXPERIMENTAL, COTSWOLDS, UK

Posted in Projects on 3 October, 2023

At Experimental Group’s new rendition of Cowley Manor, Dorothee Meilichzon doesn’t go down the rabbit hole of twee for the Alice in Wonderland themed revamp.

Words by Jess Miles | Images by Mr Tripper

The first thing you need to know about Cowley Manor is that it’s not the cookie-cutter country house retreat you might imagine, albeit located in the Cotswolds – arguably one of the most quintessentially quaint destinations in Britain. It’s experimental in both name and nature, eponymous of the Parisian-born hospitality group that’s given the hotel its new lease of life with sophisticated French flair. Fun minimalistic shapes, bold palettes, and glossy finishes are an unusual sight for a 17^th century manor house – though entirely welcome in a time where chaotic cottagecore is the protagonist of every other country hotel. You won’t find any chintz here, though there is checkerboard at every turn – which has been done with rhyme and reason as I later discover.

The quirk of Cowley Manor is nothing new, and the local village is no stranger to the onset of young design conscious guests that flock to the hotel today. Previously in the hands of Jessica and Peter Frankopan, co-founders of A Curious Group of Hotels, the hotel broke the status quo by introducing retro funk to the country charm of the Cotswolds when it first opened back in 2002. Having done all they set out to 20 years on, the Frankopans passed the baton to Experimental Group, who acquired the property last May.

Regular frequenters of the hotel in its past rendition, the owners of Experimental wanted to keep the original DNA of Cowley Manor, retaining everything that had previously made it so successful (including the hotel’s local team and the luxe, but family friendly proposition) whilst refurbing the once-hip-now-dated interiors.

Well versed in dreaming up an Experimental hotel, Dorothee Meilichzon has reimagined Cowley Manor in a completely new light. In a contemporary twist, Meilichzon’s signature design language meets the story of Alice in Wonderland – which is rumoured to have been penned by Lewis Carroll in (or at least inspired by) the very grounds that are overlooked by the main house’s most sumptuous suites.

At the thought of a theme as fantastical as Alice in Wonderland I wince imagining the kind of maximalism that treads a fine line with twee, and gimmicky curiosities that are best kept aside for an immersive theatre experience. Meilichzon however, straddles the theme and the different chapters of the property’s layered history with ease. It might be a children’s story, but Carroll’s fantasy land translates in to a playfully chic, grown-up design in this instance.

From the outside, it’s as picturesque as a scene from Bridgerton. Tootling up the winding driveway you’re greeted by (dare I say it) one of the most handsome manor houses I have had the pleasure of visiting. Though the property is said to date back to 1695 and once owned by the kings of England, the Italianate outfit the main building wears today was built just over 100 years ago by Sir James Horlick (yes, the malted milk drink family), modelled on Villa Borghese in Rome. The surrounding grounds are suitably enchanting, boasting carefully manicured Grade II-listed gardens set amidst 55 acres of captivating parkland, woodlands, and meadows. Natural springs add a touch of magic, while a captivating series of moss aged Victorian cascades and serene lakes are graced by elegant swans, cranes, and flickering dragonflies.

Though it looks entirely unrecognisable on the inside, the design celebrates the buildings original features with the addition of contemporary furniture and furnishings. With a tight turnaround of just under a year, Meilichzon reworked as much of the old fit as possible. As we toured the hotel, I’m told that some tables were either refreshed or re-topped, iron light fittings were sprayed fresh colours and given new shades, and the inherited art collection was re-curated and spread across alternative parts of the hotel. The main house is where most the action is at, hosting a number of living rooms that can be hired out for a range of events, as well as a games room, a mud room, a library, and of course the bar and restaurant.

Only befitting of Experimental Group’s reputation for bringing cocktail culture to Paris, the old bar space has been transformed into a cocktail club which serves up sleek vibes and a carefully curated selection of – you guessed it – cocktails. Polished wood panels alongside mirrored walls frame the clusters of modular seating arrangements. Together with an assortment of browns and a pop of electric blue, the bar exudes a distinct mid-century modern mood that wouldn’t be out of sync with a set from Mad Men. The weekends are host to a house DJ, whose set was well matched to the mixology – though perhaps a little too-cool-too-soon for the Cotswolds, as during our stay we were the only ones up past 9.30pm to enjoy it.

The most glorious of spaces as expected, was the restaurant. Geometric patterns collide, and postmodern shapes playfully dabble with scale – fitting of the theme, and the Memphis Design aesthetic that’s having a renaissance of late. Rich, deep hues of rust, indigo, and ochre tone the design down for a more classical ambiance, tying in the period features of the grand room – such as the stunning Arabescato marble hearth that sits centre stage, and the intricately carved wood panelled walls that have been lovingly stripped bare of the white paint that previously hid their glory. At the helm of gastronomy is celebrated British chef Jackson Boxer, whose menu incorporates seasonal produce both locally sourced and grown on the grounds, with a nod to French cuisine. Highlights were of course the Porthilly Oysters with Champagne Mignonette, followed by Gloucestershire old spot croquettes and the grilled Tamworth pork chop.

Cowley Manor boasts a total of 31 rooms, encompassing three luxurious suites distributed between the main house and converted stables, with an additional five rooms set to be unveiled in a contemporary extension by late 2023. Baledaquin beds, aged Verdigris, and elegant rattan furnishings collectively honour the historical charm of the house. Meanwhile, enamelled lava (yes, lava, so I’m told!), lime-washed walls, vibrant textiles, striking carpets, vivid hues, gleaming lacquer, and an abundance of checkerboard patterns infuse a fun, contemporary spin on the traditional. While the three suites situated on the first floor of the house offer stunning lake views from their private terraces, even the rooms categorized as entry-level provide a luxurious experience complete with feature design elements and unique configurations. In the stables, the three-story ‘Family Tree’ and the lofty ‘Alpaca’ rooms offer ample space, making them suitable for families and even accommodating dogs.

What does set Cowley Manor apart (bar its distinctive interiors) is its destination spa which was surprisingly built as part of the original hotel. Seamlessly integrated into the hotel’s landscape, the C-side Spa is an architectural feast for the eyes. Originally designed by De Matos Ryan, the spa is concealed within a sunken courtyard defined by garden walls and hidden by its living roof. It offers both indoor and outdoor pools, a gym, treatment rooms, a sauna, a steam room, and a chic retail space come coffee bar which has been refreshed with the same Meilichzon treatment as the rest of the property. The indoor pool, surrounded by frameless glass and lined with slate reflects the woodland view, providing the most peaceful swimming experience – so long as you dodge the children allocated swimming slots.

As Experimental Group’s first foray into the countryside, Cowley Manor certainly shakes up a sleepy scene. Meilichzon creates some mad moments true to both the design story and her own style, though somehow, overall its nothing short of refined and elegant. As Robert Venturi once said, and as is the case here, ‘less is a bore’ and more is more.

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