NOLINSKI VENEZIA, VENICE, ITALY

Posted in Projects

Turning its back on stocks and shares, the city’s old stock exchange now trades in discreet luxury.

Words: Emma Kennedy | Images: Guillaume de Laubier

When the invitation came through to visit the new Nolinski Venezia, I had an overwhelming urge to stand up, face the imaginary group and say, “Hello, my name is Emma and I’ve never been to Venice.” Assuming I was the last woman standing who could say this, I was surprised to find that I wasn’t alone, especially when I saw what appeared to be the world and its Nonna gathered in San Marco Piazza on an autumn evening. “This is a quiet time of year,” I was reliably informed by our guide. No wonder tourism is an ongoing bone of contention with Venetian locals.

Launched in late June, Nolinski Venezia is the latest addition to hospitality group Evok’s growing portfolio of hotels and restaurants – and its first venture outside France. Like the rest of its properties, the former Stock Exchange or Borsa is a grand affair. Whilst not sharing the delicate frivolity of its more fragile neighbours, what it lacks in picture-book Venetian charm, it certainly makes up for in gravitas.

Architecture and design
Built in 1929, its façade is not without decoration. In keeping with the city’s seafaring heritage, gargoyles of predatory sea monsters glare out with menace, softened by seashells placed at intervals, and an entourage of carved octopi (a recurring theme I was soon to discover) whose tentacles spread out to support the window frames.

The reinforced concrete structure was the first of its kind in the city and is defined by its height – surpassed only by the campanile and duomo of the San Marco Basilica. Located on Calle Larga XX11 Marzo, it resides on the city’s chicest shopping street (think Gucci, Saint-Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana…) and just a two-minute walk from Piazza San Marco and the Grand Canal. Protected by Venice’s Historic Monuments laws, Nolinski Venezia has been a project four years in the making. With his main objective to create a Venetian as opposed to an international hotel, award-winning architect, Alberto Torsello led the refurbishment. Working closely with Torsello, Italian and French design duo Yann Le Coadic and Alessandro Scotto created the interiors. Having successfully completed EVOK’s sister property, Cour des Vosges, Paris, the pair readily embraced the challenges imposed by the building.

Public spaces
From the word go, Nolinski is discreet. So discreet I was still sailing by the entrance like a gondola on day two of my stay. In my defence, there isn’t any signage, until you’re well into the entrance – and there’s a lot outside to distract you. Leaving the shouty shops behind, a red carpet quietly leads the way to the third-floor lobby.  Choosing to take the grand staircase – an imposing wrought iron affair – offers ample opportunity to acclimatise to your new surroundings. As I ascend, a heady fragrance fills the air and daylight is replaced with moody lighting. So moody, I’m beginning to feel like an unwitting extra on a Venetian murder mystery film set.

Lobby

Arriving in the lobby, Murano glass lighting glows seductively from every surface. Rich plump velvet armchairs sit to attention around low marble tables. Underfoot, myriad terrazzo marble – some original, some sensitively added – create borders around rich red, deep pile carpets. Archways and columns dictate the design in the best possible way, and the overall effect is quite breath-taking and in keeping with the Art Deco origins of the property. Immediately the bones of Nolinski Venezia feel as if they are all in the right place and are forgiven when occasionally they aren’t conducive to the building’s new hospitable role. But, for my money, I would rather be somewhere that feels true to itself, than chopped up to allow for a sofa – however deep and comfortable.

Checking in to a background of gentle jazz, I realise my voice has dropped to barely a whisper, as I settle into the otherworldly ambience of the hotel. And that is the power of design.

Beyond heavy double doors, the Library Bar is lined with floor-to-ceiling bookcases that spill over with well-thumbed books. A red velvet sofa, served by small tables and matching cocktail chairs faces a rich gold bar that addresses the room like an altar. Overhead, a Chagall-esque mural in blues and greens, adds an unexpected lightness to the otherwise opulent setting.

Lighter and brighter, the fine dining Palais Royal Restaurant takes up position in the old Council Chambers. An upper gallery encircles the perimeter, allowing eye level appreciation of the huge mid-century chandelier, fittingly adorned with glass shades like brandy glasses. Round tables dressed in crisp linens sit upon thick rugs, with bold patterns that echo the arches that prop up the gallery. With its double-height ceiling, it’s a striking space, which by day is filled with natural light and by night settles into the subdued, theatrical opulence of the rest of the hotel.

Off the central courtyard, is the Mediterranean-inspired Il Caffè Nolinski. Less formal, but equally contemporary in both style and design, it too is a haven of tranquillity. Stone floors, coffered ceilings, original brick and white marmorino walls contrast amicably with the warm, velvety tones of the decor.

Wellness
Slightly at odds with the rest of the hotel’s plush offerings, is the pool on the top floor. Despite the brass framed windows with far reaching views across the city and glitzy gold mosaiced pool, it feels a world away from the interior indulgence of the floors below. Whether it’s the smell of chlorine that replaces the rich scent that infuses the rest of the hotel, or the rough grey walls (which feel a tad cold) that separate it, I couldn’t say, but either way it still refreshes the senses.

Back in sensory heaven, the Nolinski Spa delivers its Swiss Bliss La Colline treatments, in an Ottoman inspired setting. So, if a pool swim is your thing, a timely visit to the spa is the perfect way of transporting yourself back to the rarified serenity you will by then have become accustomed to. Failing that a cocktail in the Library Bar will suffice. It all comes under the umbrella of Wellness in my book.

Rooms and Suites
The 43 rooms including 13 suites, fall into seven categories. Given the sensitive restoration of the old Stock Exchange (Nolinski sits across two buildings) they all differ in size and offerings, but from the smallest room to the master suite, each is beautifully appointed. My Superior Suite on the 5^th floor had the distinct feel of a luxurious pied-à-terre, looking out across the Venetian rooftops. Stepping through the original double doors, flanked by rich mango wood wardrobes, is the living area. Ahead, dividing the space, dark shelving with brass fittings rest upon cupboards concealing the fridge and drawers filled with local delicacies. A full complimentary cocktail bar, complete with all the required silverware takes the place of a coffee machine (no single use plastic here!).

Rugs of footprint gathering thickness lay upon on parquet floors, mid-century chairs swathed in burnt orange velvet sit opposite a dusky pink sofa with its back against the wall. Another pair of double doors thrown open reveal the bedroom, with more vistas and a wall of cut marble. Decorative plasterwork panels in a subdued palette of greys and cream, pick up on the colours of the heavily veined marble. Hiding behind bronze-clad sliding doors, the ensuite is enveloped in iridescent pearl-like mosaiced tiles, with an inset gold octopus above the bath. Crediting Venice as I applied my makeup, for the golden glow I had mysteriously acquired, I soon realised it was cast by light reflected from the bronze sink below. Still, I was happy. 

Thoughtful touches
Amid the rich opulence of the hotel, bowls of soft pink roses are placed throughout, from the lobby to the bathroom.

The hotel’s art collection is a masterclass in curation and positioning, with an array of classical and modern pieces popping up in areas that often get ignored; a dead-end corridor to the housekeeping room; the walkway to the washrooms…

The Nolinski signature scent that welcomes you in the lobby and sends you to sleep at night.